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Process

If you've ever wondered how a Monkeyman Frame is made you're in the right place.
This page will show you all the phases involved in the creation of your frame.

(Click preview images for detail view)

 

 
 

The first part of the frame making process is wood selection. Hand carved Monkeyman Frames are made from a variety of hardwoods. The hard wood is purchased in large planks and the wood is selected both by tightness of grain and weight. Generally speaking, the heavier pieces of wood are cut from the center of the tree. The center of the tree tends to be stronger, more dense and has a more intricate grain.

 

 
 

The second step is the milling process. The full sized plank is usually about 2 inches thick and 12 feet long. The plank is "ripped" into strips that will eventually be frame stock. The strips are then given a profile based on the style of the artwork. A profile includes putting a slope on the front edge of the frame and cutting a "rabbet" (the notch for the artwork) on the back.

 



 

 
 

The third step is cutting and assembly. The frame stock is measured to the artwork and then miter cut.The frame is glued, stapled and screwed together. Wood plugs are used to cover the screw holes. The triple fastening process creates a super strong frame that can withstand the ensuing beating that it will take during the carving process. The point is to have a stable frame even after it has been hammered on for many hours. The assembled frame is then belt sanded to smooth all the sides and de-burr the edges.

 

 

 
 

The fourth step is the design phase. Your artwork is evaluated (often via photograph or emailed image) and the ultimate design is intended to "tie in" with some element in the art. The artwork is sketched full scale on paper and carbon paper is used to transfer that image onto the frame. The benefit of tracing it is that a much cleaner image can be created on paper than on a sloping hunk of wood. I can keep the original artwork (full scale) for future reference or use. An added bonus is that the carbon paper leaves a nice bold purple line to carve around. The faint or erased pencil marks are a non-issue when carbon paper is used.

 


 

 
 

The fifth and most labor intensive step is actually carving the image into the frame. I generally use a v tool to create a preliminary cut where the lines are. Then I work with a variety of gouges and chisels to make progressively deeper cuts. Once the cut is deep enough I then cut any required contours or slopes. When working with such intricate detail, its often difficult or risky to use a mallet so much of the work is simply palm tools and body weight. Mallets on the small stuff often result in chipped or split wood where you least want it. An average 16" x 24" frame takes roughly 15-20 hours to carve.

 

 

 
 

The sixth phase is cleanup. The clean up often involves tearing tiny strips of sand paper and folding them into little squares so that I can sand in between the cuts. For super tiny grooves and crevices I use a rotary tool with a 1/8" attachment to get in where my chisels can't. The final process involves a small buffing wheel to take any splinters or roughness off the surface of the frame. If a chisel finish is desired, I would use a curved gouge to put small shiny cuts on the surface to create that faux hand cut look.

 

 

 
 

The seventh part involves painting and stain. Not all Monkeyman Frames are painted but if the job calls for it, I use acrylic craft paint mixed with water to decorate key detail. The paint is always applied before the stain and generally muted colors are used. Once the paint is dry, an oil based stain is brushed on the whole frame (including painted areas). By applying the stain over the paint, it achieves an antiqued look often desired on rustic oceanic art.

 



 

 
 

Once the stain is dry, a minimum of 3 coats of spray lacquer (either satin or semi gloss) is applied. When the lacquer dries, a coat of furniture wax is gently rubbed on to give the frame its lustrous shine. The hanging hardware is installed and rubber non skid dots are always placed in the lower corners of the frame.

 

 

 

 
 

The artwork is inserted (if I have it) and the frame is packed for shipment. The next stop is your wall!

Thanks for your interest and your patronage:

Monkeyman

 

 

 

 
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